Painting fiberglass windows

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Newest Oldest. Windows on Washington Ltd 10 years ago. Not difficult at all. Not altogether dissimilar from painting over a previously painted surface. Like Save. Depending on what part of the country you live in, you will find many quality vinyl windows that can be made up to 52 inches wide and 80 inches high. Painting dormer windows interior and window treatments Q. Dormer windows can be a challenge. It really depends on the size of the room that has the windows whether or not you do an accent color or pain the dormers the same color as the walls.

I lean toward making them blend with the rest of the room so that the rooms doesn't look chopped up. Window treatments need to be proportion to the length of the dormer , so the finished length needs to be no more than about 15". Good luck! If you have the proper tools and the trim is worthy, refinishing would be the option I would go for.

You would be best buying or renting a floor edging sander if you have flat trim and getting the very high quality sand paper for it, it lasts forever or you will go through pads. Belt and orbital sanders don't have the RPM to get the job down quickly.

Your other option is to check the architectural salvage houses. Many times they have what you could spend weeks on redoing.

I have the same dilemma. I want a thin dark look which is aluminum but the contractors I have talked to do not recommend them. Sounds to me like you are stuck with the painting option then. If the object is small enough to fit in a sink, take it inside and wash it with soap and water. Rinse it clean, then allow it to air dry completely. For especially large objects, such as tubs and boats, scrub it outside with soapy water, then rinse it with fresh water. Buff away the shine with to grit sandpaper.

Paint doesn't stick to glossy surfaces, so you need to remove all traces of shine to help it adhere. You want the surface to feel smooth and dull. Wipe the dust off with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a tacky piece of fabric that picks up dust easily. You can find it in most hardware stores and well-stocked craft stores. For stubborn sanding dust, use a rag dipped in mineral spirits.

Mask any areas that you don't want to be painted with painter's tape. You can paint the entire fiberglass object, or you can paint only parts of it i. Tear off strips of painter's tape, and use them to cover the areas that you do not want to be painted.

If there are any gaps, the paint may seep underneath and give you a fuzzy line. Part 2. Purchase the right type of paint for your surface. A basic spray paint or latex-acrylic paint will do just fine on a decorative piece or a door. Polyurethane or epoxy paint are better suited to surfaces that will see a lot of heavy use, such as boats, bathtubs, and sinks.

Epoxy paint must be mixed with a catalyst, just like epoxy resin. The catalyst is usually sold with the epoxy paint. Purchase the right type of primer and topcoat, if needed. Most polyurethane and epoxy paints do not require primers, but most spray paints and latex-acrylic paints do. If your paint requires a primer, make sure that you buy the same kind of primer and topcoat i. Check the label on the bucket or can of paint to find out if you need a primer and topcoat.

Set the topcoat aside for later. Coat the surface with 1 to 2 coats of primer. If you are using the brush-on kind, simply apply it with a foam roller or a paintbrush. If you are using the spray-on kind, apply a light, even coat. Allow the primer to dry to the touch before applying a second coat. If your primer is not coming out evenly, apply it in short bursts rather than a single, sweeping, side-to-side motion.

Allow the primer to dry and cure. How long this takes depends on the product that you used. Some primers cure within a few hours while others take much longer. Just because the primer feels dry, that does not mean that it is cured and ready to be painted. Make sure to check the label. Apply your first coat of paint.

If you are working with epoxy paint, you will need to mix the 2 parts together epoxy and catalyst first; other types of paint do not require any preparation. Apply the paint systematically, working from the right to the left or left-to-right if you are left-handed , top-to-bottom.

For more specific instructions: Brush-on paint: pour the paint onto a tray, then apply it with a foam roller first. Start by dry sanding with grit production paper to thoroughly remove the glossy layer from the gelcoat. Any areas left glossy will not give the primer a tooth to bite into for adhesion. A warning about sanding the gelcoat: use caution to prevent sanding all the way through the gelcoat layer, which can open up pinholes in the fiberglass that can later show through the paint.

If the gel coat is sanded through and the strands of the glass show, this needs to be sealed with fiberglass resin or body filler. Corvette panel adhesive is a great product to repair these areas. Repairs such as these should always be sanded and blocked smooth before laying down your first coat of primer. Any major repairs or alterations usually require additional procedures to achieve professional results. Remember, you can always follow the recommended procedure from your local auto body supplier.

The primer should be wet sanded with grit paper or finer in order to mate with the top coats being used. Be sure to thoroughly dry and wipe down the surface with clean paper towels and do any additional cleaning with a final wash or wax and grease remover. For a look at Speedway Motors' fiberglass parts and accessories click here. Products to Compare max of 3 X.